FRONTIER DRESS                                      return to HISTORY INDEX
From the book "History of Allegheny County, Pennsylvania", published by A. Warner & Co., Chicago, 1889. Most of the details are reprinted there from the memoirs of Rev. Joseph DODDRIDGE, who was of English descent and born 14 Oct. 1769 in Bedford Co., PA. He moved with his family to Washington Co., PA in 1773. He recorded many of his own observations of life on the frontier and stories that were told to him by other pioneers. "Doddridge's Notes" were printed in 1824, 1876, expanded in 1912, and reprinted in 1988.

"Both necessity and policy dictated that the dress, especially that of those who engaged much in hunting and scouting, should be rather simple, and as much as possible like that of the Indians. It was impossible, indeed, to have a very elaborate outfit; and if it had been possible it would have been out of place on the hunt; besides, it was advisable for the scouts to dress as nearly as might be done after the Indian style. [from Doddridge] 'The hunting-shirt was universally worn. This was a kind of loose frock reaching half-way down the thighs, with large sleeves, open before, and so wide as to lap over a foot or more when belted. The cape was large, and sometimes handsomely fringed with a raveled piece of cloth of a different color from that of the hunting-shirt itself. The bosom of this dress served as a wallet to hold a chunk of bread, cakes, jerk, tow for wiping the barrel of the rifle, or any other necessary for the hunter or warrior. The belt, which was always tied behind, answered several purposes besides that of holding the dress together. In cold weather the mittens, and sometimes the bullet-bag, occupied the front part of it. To the right side was suspended he tomahawk, and to the left the scalping-knife, in its leathern sheath. The hunting-shirt was generally made of linsey, sometimes of coarse linen, and a few of dressed deerskin. These last were very cold and uncomfortable in wet weather. The shirt and jacket were of the common fashion. A pair of drawers and leggins were the dress of the thighs and legs; a pair of moccasins answered for the feet much better than shoes. These were made of dressed deerskin. They were mostly made of a single piece with a gathering seam along the top of the foot, and another from the bottom of the heel, with gathers as high as the ankle joint or a little higher. Flaps were left on each side to reach some distance up the legs. These were nicely adapted to the ankles and lower parts of the leg by thongs of deerskin, so that no dust, gravel or snow could get within the moccasin.' The Moccasins were easily made; every family had its awl for that purpose, with its buckhorn handle; and the evenings were as a rule given to this rude species of shoemaking. For socks, deer's hair or dry leaves were used, with  which the moccasins were well stuffed, and the feet were kept passably comfortable; but in wet weather it was usually said that wearing them was 'a decent way of going barefooted,' and such was the fact, owing to the spongy nature of the leather of which they were made. 'In the latter years of the Indian war our young men became enamored of the Indian dress throughout, with the exception of the matchcoat. The drawers were laid aside and the leggins made longer, so as to reach the upper part of the thigh. The Indian breechclout was adopted. This was a piece of linen or cloth nearly a yard long, and eight or nine inches broad. This passed under the belt before and behind, leaving the ends for flaps hanging before and behind over the belt. These flaps were sometimes ornamented with some coarse kind of embroidery-work. To the same belts which secured the breechclout strings which supported [sic] the long leggins were attached. When this belt, as was often the case, passed over the hunting-shirt, the upper part of the thighs and part of the hips were naked. The young warrior, instead of being abashed by this nudity, was proud of his Indian-like dress. In some few instances I have seen them go into places of public worship in this dress...'